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Here’s how to make traditional Lao papaya salad (Thum Mak Hoong)

Smiling long-haired woman wearing a green blouse with a black blazer over it. Belinda Inthiphan

By Belinda Inthiphan

Knightly News Reporter

[email protected]

Landlocked and tucked away in the center of Southeast Asia, Laos is known for its rich traditions, gorgeous countryside and delicious food. Lao food has a strong connection with community, family and locally grown fresh foods. Thum Mak Hoong, or Lao papaya salad, is among its best-known delicious dishes.

A large aluminum baking pan with shredded papaya and green vegetables and pepper sauce. Thum Mak Hoong, Lao papaya salad.
Thum Mak Hoong. Photo by Belinda Inthiphan.

The ideal blend of sweet, sour, salty and spicy provided by Lao papaya salad, also known as Thum Mak Hoong is great for people who enjoy strong flavors, crisp textures and a generous dose of spiciness. Although Lao papaya salad shares similarities to its Thai cousin Som Tum, it is set apart by its stronger punch and deeper fermented flavors. Popular at dinner tables, street stalls and family get-togethers throughout Southeast Asia, it is a staple meal in Laos.

Although preparing this tasty salad at home might seem difficult at first, anyone can become an expert with a few necessary ingredients and a little mortar-and-pestle work.

What you’ll need

Before you begin, gather these essential ingredients. You may find most of these ingredients at an Asian supermarket:

1 small green (unripe) papaya, peeled and shredded

2–3 cloves garlic

2–3 bird’s-eye chilies (adjust to your spice tolerance)

2 tablespoons fish sauce

1 tablespoon fermented fish sauce (padek) – optional but traditional

1 tablespoon palm sugar (or brown sugar)

1–2 tablespoons lime juice

5–6 cherry tomatoes, halved

2–3 long beans, cut into 2-inch pieces

Optional additions: shredded carrot, crushed peanuts, seafood, pho meatballs

Step 1: Shred the papaya

The green papaya takes center stage. Firm and mildly flavored, it’s perfect for soaking up the tangy dressing. Use a julienne peeler or a knife, using classic shredding method to cut the skin into long, thin strips. Drain the papaya thoroughly after soaking it in cold water for 10 minutes or so to crisp it up.

Step 2: Pound the aromatics

Add the chiles and garlic to a large mortar and pestle which is also known as a “khok” in Lao. Until they are crushed but not completely ground into a paste, pound them gently. This allows the aroma and heat to escape without being too mashed.

Step 3: Add the seasonings

To the mortar, add the fish sauce, fermented fish sauce (if using), lime juice and palm sugar. Using a spoon, mix and lightly pound to combine. The unique umami base that defines Lao papaya salad is produced by combining sweet palm sugar with salty fish sauce.

Step 4: Toss in the veggies

Add the long beans and cherry tomatoes, cut in half. To bruise and soften the vegetables without entirely smashing them, pound them gently while stirring. This maintains their crispness while allowing them to absorb the flavors.

Step 5: Mix in the papaya

Finally, add the papaya shreds. Gently mix, fold and bruise the papaya into the sauce with a spoon in one hand and a pestle in the other. This is an important stage for flavor. The goal isn’t to mash it, but to infuse all the flavor and textures together. 

Step 6: Taste and adjust

Lao papaya salad should balance the flavors of sweet, sour, salty and spicy. Add a little more lime for tang or fish sauce for saltiness, depending on your taste. As every family and region has a different style, don’t be scared to adjust the flavor accordingly.

Step 7: Serve and enjoy

Serve right away, best with grilled meats and sticky rice (khao niao). To reduce the spiciness, it also pairs well with crispy pork rinds or cabbage leaves. It is traditional to share Lao papaya salad, eat it with your hands and savor each bite.

Sidenote

Thum Mak Hoong is a cultural expression rather than just another salad. The richness of Lao cuisine can be seen in every crushed bird’s eye pepper and every dash of fermented fish sauce. This recipe always packs a punch in terms of flavor and heartiness, whether it’s prepared from scratch in a home kitchen in the Harrisburg metropolitan area  and served there or at a busy street market in Vientiane.


Comment or story idea? Have an easy-to-make summer recipe you’d like to share? Contact [email protected].

Edited by Knightly News Club @ Central Penn College Media Club co-adviser and editor of this blog Professor Michael Lear-Olimpi.